elettaria: (Gay penguins)
I've just finished reading Carol Shields' Happenstance, a novel written in 1980 which features a woman who is attending a quilting conference in Philadelphia during the course of the novel. During this conference, a psychology/art history lecturer who has obviously never picked up a needle in her life gives a Freudian interpretation of quilting which is even funnier than the Freudian analysis of Alice in Wonderland in Atwood's The Edible Woman. Apart from being hilarious, it does give a great example of what happens when academics get too far away from the reality of their topic.

For those of you reading this who don't sew (there are links to the patterns for such folks), I'd like to remind you of issues such as what size and shape fabric is lying around (many quilts can be made from leftovers, which are often strips of fabric), and the way that the order of sewing pieces dictates what can be done. For those of you are aren't lit theorists: it's a parody but yes, lit crit really can get this crazy (oh, that book I once read which decided that the Duke's re-entry into Vienna in Measure for Measure was a vaginal penetration - how would they stage that one?), though don't forget that this is also being filtered through second-wave feminism, bless it. Feel free to suggest better examples of the quilts, I'm having to guess which "fan quilt" is mean for instance.

Quilting Through the Freudian Looking Glass: A New Interpretation

Dr. O'Leary, a stack of note cards in hand, touches on the best known of traditional quilting patterns, naming them lightly, as though they were as familiar to her as the names of her children or her oldest friends. The lecture is accompanied by slides projected on an overhead screen. Slide one: the Star of Bethlehem clearly representing an orgasmic explosion, though it has also been viewed as an immense, quivering vulva. "Women in pioneer America suppressed their sexuality as society demanded, but ecstasy found a channel through circumscribed needlework."

Slide two: the well-loved Wedding Ring quilt, symbolising the enclosed nature of femaleness. Next: the Double Ring quilt, which, instead of breaking through that enclosure, merely amplified it. Then the traditional Fan quilt, quietly mocking male ontology - Brenda is not sure of the word ontology - with its dull, unrelenting repetitions; Dr. O'Leary sees this mockery as being subtle, punitive, and filled with pain. The Log Cabin quilt, the most telling, the most incriminating of quilting patterns, presents a seamless field of phallic symbols, so tightly bound together that there is no room at all for female genitalia. The multiple phallic images suggest penis envy on one hand and fantasies of gang rape on the other.

And finally, the ironically named Crazy Quilt, offering early American women a sanctioned release from social and sexual stereotyping, and, in the hands of the most daring, an expression of savage and primitive longings. Dr. O'Leary has made a detailed study of the shapes in these so-called crazy quilts; the presence of many triangles suggests irresolution, perhaps even androgyny. Breast shapes, interestingly, outnumber phalli, but Dr. O'Leary and her assistant are hesitant about drawing premature conclusions. It may be that women were defending and proclaiming their femininity; or, and this seems more likely, they may have been expressing infantile needs which had not been satisfied. As for the present-day revival in quiltmaking, Dr. O'Leary interprets it partly as apologia, partly as retreat from responsibility, and partly a continuum of what it has always been, a means of exercising control over a disorganised and hostile universe.

- Carol Shields, Happenstance: The Wife's Story, Flamingo: London 1994, pp.138-9.

Joking apart, I'd be interested to hear what other people think about textiles, gender and meaning. Working with fabric is a sensuous pleasure, and I've seen a few rather sexy quilts, though generally not the traditional geometric patterns discussed above, not to mention that quilts are practical things and often intended for general family use or for children. (My grandmother, on the other hand, made a number of weavings which are quite ridiculously vulval in shape.) I'm keeping an eye open for literature which discusses needlecraft, for example Atwood's Alias Grace which manages to combine quilting and murder, Susan Glaspell's short story "A Jury of her Peers" which combines the two even more strongly, or Donoghue's Slammerkin, this time about dressmaking and, er, murder. (And sex!) There's a lovely Carol Ann Duffy poem I've managed to dig out again (a former tutor ran off with my copy of the volume it's from, The World's Wife) on Penelope.

Penelope

At first, I looked along the road
hoping to see him saunter home
among the olive trees,
a whistle for the dog
who mourned him with his warm head on my knees.
Six months of this
and then I noticed that whole days had passed
without my noticing.
I sorted cloth and scissors, needle, thread,

thinking to amuse myself,
but found a lifetime’s industry instead.
I sewed a girl
under a single star – cross-stitch, silver silk –
running after childhood’s bouncing ball.
I chose between three greens for the grass;
a smoky pink, a shadow’s grey
to show a snapdragon gargling a bee.
I threaded walnut brown for a tree,

my thimble like an acorn
pushing up through umber soil.
Beneath the shade
I wrapped a maiden in a deep embrace
with heroism’s boy
and lost myself completely
in a wild embroidery of love, lust, loss, lessons learnt;
then watched him sail away
into the loose gold stitching of the sun.

And when the others came to take his place,
disturb my peace,
I played for time.
I wore a widow’s face, kept my head down,
did my work by day, at night unpicked it.
I knew which hour of the dark the moon
would start to fray,
I stitched it.
Grey threads and brown

pursued my needle’s leaping fish
to form a river that would never reach the sea.
I tricked it. I was picking out
the smile of a woman at the centre
of this world, self-contained, absorbed, content,
most certainly not waiting,
when I heard a far-too-late familiar tread outside the
door.
I licked my scarlet thread
and aimed it surely at the middle of the needle’s eye
once more.

I occasionally wonder how someone could have done what Penelope reputedly did: promised that she would remarry when she'd finished making a tapestry, sewed in the day, and unpicked her work at night. I can't think of anything more frustrating than constantly destroying your own work, never allowing it to progress - and tapestry is slow, slow work, you might cover a few squares inches in a day. Perhaps she would unpick a part of the tapestry, then sew something different in its place, so that the work was constantly shifting, motifs leading to first one thing then another? A lovely image for multivocality.

cross-posted to my journal, [livejournal.com profile] quilting and [livejournal.com profile] literary_theory

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 09:06 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] leenah.livejournal.com
the wedding ring quilt you have linked isn't what the author intended, since what you've linked is an 'original' pattern. i have no idea how the author distinguishes between wedding ring and double wedding ring - as far as i know, it's the same pattern.

fan quilt - that's exactly right. yay!

though maybe the star of bethlehem meant was in red tones? blues seem so cold given the stated representation.

:)

(i have MANY yards of fabric, quilt pieces cut, some sewn together, MANY quilt ideas in my head and some written down, and TWO finished quilts for all my efforts.)

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 09:20 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
Ooh, didn't know you were another quilter! Any pictures? I have various cushions finished, a Carpenter's Square top in greens waiting to be basted and quilted (need a few more bits of equipment first, and rather scared of the basting), and, er, three or four quilts I'm now planning...

Yes, I was a bit puzzled by the wedding ring business, as I've never seen the first one listed on Quilters' Cache either, and Google Image is only bringing up the second, listed both as a Wedding Ring and also a Double Wedding Ring.

The whole point is that quilts can be in any colour, which was one reason why I went with that utterly non-sexual blue one (anyway, have you ever seen a sexual Star of Bethlehem?). Plus my grandmother easily managed to make weavings look terribly sexual even when done in blue and yellow! Here (http://www.quilttownusa.com/Town_Hall/imgs/G.%20Hutson%20interview/hutson1.jpg) is a red one. Still doesn't look particularly raunchy to me. Now this (http://www.risingstarquilters.org/pastshows/images03/L6.jpg) is more like it, lots of strong energy pulsing through there, but it's not a dead traditional Lone Star/Star of Bethlehem.

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 10:08 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] leenah.livejournal.com
well, of course i don't have pictures, 'cause that would be USEFUL. ;)


oooh, wait, there's this one that i made for [livejournal.com profile] justjanus. i reworked a bear's claw so it would be a badger's claw. then realized i was only going to get ONE block made, so just went with it. (and goofed that one block, oh well.) the border (and block) fabric i got in indonesia.

a sexual star of bethlehem. now THAT should be the focus of a quilt challenge.

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 10:59 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
It doesn't let me in, for some reason.

And yes, it really should. I'm currently being inspired by that spiraly one I linked to and wishing my crappy demo quilting software could do a Lone Star.

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 11:09 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] leenah.livejournal.com
eeep! sorry. i had it marked private. i think it'll work now.

yay computers, but sometimes they trip me up.

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 11:44 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
Nice, I like the quirkiness of it, and that brown background fabric is stunning.

I have just discovered Spiral Lone Stars, and then for some reason spiral aloes came up in a search and I am IN LOVE. How do I translate this into quiltiness?

Date: Tuesday, 8 January 2008 12:08 am (UTC)From: [identity profile] leenah.livejournal.com
have you seen anything by Ruth McDowell? apparently she's writing books now about how to put together quilts similar to her style. i have an older book that's mostly beautiful photos and descriptions of how she came up with her quilts.

a lone star / spiral aloe quilt would be gorgeous. and GREEN, which is the very best color (imo). :)


isn't that brown fabric fab??!! traditional indonesian batik. i should have brought an empty suitcase w/ me to indonesia, 'cause i could have filled it easily. gorgeous prints. i haven't used much of it, but it makes me happy to just see it. i have some pieces (say meter size) on the walls of my office cube. brightens up the place.

Date: Tuesday, 8 January 2008 12:33 am (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
Ooh, I'm tempted. This quilt (http://www.ruthbmcdowell.com/clients/rbm/ShowQuilt.cfm?quilt=ElkHairCaddis) by one of her students caught my eye, while we're talking about greens. I haven't a clue how that aloe could be quiltified, though I've printed out the one in my icon and am thoughtfully drawing lines on it. Poor D, he's turning into a quilting widower. I should go and pay him some attention!

Date: Tuesday, 8 January 2008 04:36 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
Also, that's the goof I narrowly avoided when planning a purple quilt for [livejournal.com profile] eye_of_a_cat. Thankfully, somewhere around the fifth planning out of fabric cutting on home-made graph paper, I realised that for non-symmetrical triangles, half will have to be facing one way and half the other. Embarrassingly, the first time I drew it out I somehow assumed that the units making up a 12" nine-patch are each 3" x 3", instead of 4" x 4". Everything was a lot harder to fit into the fat quarters once I twigged.

I've just ordered a piecing workbook by McDowell, and if I like it I'll get her design workbook. Outrageously expensive for such short books.

Date: Tuesday, 8 January 2008 05:06 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] leenah.livejournal.com
it took me so damned long to make the quilt that i just said screw it to fixing the big mistake. go w/ the quirky! embrace the spontaneity of screwing it up!

i hope the book is useful to you. another of my most favorite quilters is Carol Anne Grotrian. i LOVE that quilt. covet, oh i covet it.

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 09:20 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elfbystarlight.livejournal.com
The log cabin in tradionally constructed around a red square for the hearth, the centre of the home. How on earth is there no room for the female in that? By that interpretation, it's a tightly woven band of male bits between the female and the rest of the world....

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 09:26 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
Also known as the school of lit crit which is so busy looking for genital symbols that it can't see anything else at all! There's also the business of quilting traditionally being a female occupation.

I'm trying to work out how you'd apply above idiotic interpretation to log cabins which are made of scraps. Phalli: the bits left over after more exciting things have been done with the rest of the fabric? (Don't kill me, gents.)

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 09:29 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elfbystarlight.livejournal.com
Traditionally female, but there's frequently been male presence in it... I have a book on Victorian patchwork somewhere that contains a period image of a wounded soldier piecing a quilt out of old uniforms, which apparently was pretty common. (The pattern was 60/60/60 triangles, I forget their proper name, if that matter.)

Also, isn't crazy patchwork itself a Victorian form?

(As for leftovers, most of what made up those scraps was offcuts from making women's dresses, too....)

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 09:57 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elettaria.livejournal.com
Now you're just making me think of all those manly, manly sailors in Patrick O'Brian, sewing their own clothes, sewing women's clothes when necessary (with great speed and skill), and being "tie-mates" for plaiting each other's pigtails. Bless them.

Plus I'm getting an image of some repressed Victorian chap fetishising a quilt a woman had made. "Ah, these cream diamonds, that might have come from petticoats that perhaps brushed her..."

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 10:29 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] elfbystarlight.livejournal.com
I can so see that sort of thing happening....

Date: Tuesday, 8 January 2008 02:17 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] mirrorshard.livejournal.com
Phalli: the bits left over after more exciting things have been done with the rest of the fabric? (Don't kill me, gents.)

Can't, too busy laughing.

Though you could always go see a mohel for the fabric scraps...

Date: Monday, 7 January 2008 10:50 pm (UTC)From: [identity profile] nadyezhda.livejournal.com
I've never heard that Penelope was doing tapestry, instead that she was weaving. This would be much easier to unmake. (Tapestry seems to be a much-later conceit, anyway, at least in my mind!)

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